Wednesday, January 30, 2013
Milford Sound and Leaving New Zealand
Tuesday, January 29, 2013
Between Sounds: Reflection #1 on a Very Long Cruise
Wednesday 30 January 2013 – Between Dusky and Milford Sound, New Zealand
As we sail in 5000 foot deep water just a mile or so off shore from the New Zealand fjords, I thought I make a few additional comments on Silver Whisper and a very long cruise.
Silver Whisper was built in 2001. It doesn't really show its age as much as it does the style of decorating that was considered the last word in elegance 15 years ago. Barbara describes the décor as blond wood, kind semi-Italianate but without the gilt. I'd say it has a huge bit of guilt considering the very bizarre (and probably very expensive) artwork throughout the ship. Strange looking impressionist sketches appear in a few public rooms, but the stairways have niches with what looks like wire sculptures of people with debilitating diseases. The small forward elevator that serves Deck 4 suites has what must be a classical drawing of a strange woman with either a dead animal or perhaps a male body part around her. I try to avert my gaze when using the adjacent stairway as it invariably causes me to giggle and/or make a rude comment. The inevitable Filipino butler or housekeeper present always looks confused at my behavior but never fails to say, "Good morning", whenever I pass whatever the time of the day or night.
The above mentioned lift, by the way, is the local alternative to the bank four elegant elevators at mid ships along with the inevitable ship's space wasting curved staircases which provide access to most public areas. The small elevator unfortunately is used by the most geriatric guests on the ship along with the butlers delivering room service during the busiest hours when the crew lifts are overloaded. The end result is that a ride to any deck in this lift is slower than the Canarsie Line on a Sunday. Of course, most people forget their destination when they glimpse the animal clad/penis lady. The poor cane or walker crowed hardly giggle but do look alarmed.
As mentioned in an earlier blog entry, about 120 of the 340 or so guests onboard this segment are "World Cruisers" who embarked Silver Whisper in mid-December in Fort Lauderdale or early January in Los Angles but unlike us who are getting off in Hong Kong in a month are going all the way and disembarking in early May in Fort Lauderdale or even later in the Spring in London after a second Atlantic crossing. These folks either have no home, no life, or enjoy multiple lifeboat drills (now required before every cruise segment instead of once per total cruise after the Costa Concordia tragedy). These folks, who seem quite friendly and make for pretty delightful dinner companions proving that money can buy happiness under the right circumstances, generally keep pretty much to themselves. Except for watching only one so-called news network and repeating what they hear as truth because they heard it on that news network are remarkably unassuming otherwise. I guess the homeless often are modest in demeanor. The World Cruisers however tend to pretty much ignore where the ship is and refer to previous cruises as having "done Singapore to Bombay" or the like. We have surmised that using the verb, "done", avoids having to say that they have really been, seen, or toured a place. Just our theory.
For all it's worth, it is true that many of the older world cruisers have kind of forgotten details of their previous travels and also are a bit jaded. I said to one guest this morning after the fantastic transit of Dusky Sound, "Wasn't it beautiful this morning?". He said, "Where?". And earlier in the cruise a nice elderly lady insisted that she had taken the 4-wheel drive into the mountains on an earlier visit to Rangiroa. Unfortunately her memory might have been a bit off as Rangiroa is nothing but a huge circular reef with a maximum height of 5 feet MSL. On the other hand, nobody on board had any comments about anything unusual in the 30 minute time zone change when approaching Huku Niva.
We are at the half way point of our longest ever 50 day cruise now and have discovered another consequence of such a long sea voyage. (There are others that I will address in a future entry.) That is, one's infrastructure can go to hell in a hand basket when so far from real cities and with the many sea days that world cruise itineraries are often programmed to contain.
Here's a summary of our major events and their resolution:
1. 1. Shortly after sailing on the initial 8 days at sea from Los Angeles to the Marquesas Islands, Barbara discovered that the power supply for her laptop somehow disappeared, probably on the TSA screening belt at Denver International for our flight out. After we searched through the ship's collections of computer parts, cords, power supplies, and various other goodies left and unclaimed by previous guests since 2001, the Computer Room assistant on Silver Whisper ordered a replacement power supply and US cord from Dell. It was delivered by the port agent in Auckland. The Internet guy told me, "No Charge". We bought him a very nice Kiwi beverage as thanks.
2. 2. Both mine and Barbara's cheap Timex everyday watches stopped shortly upon sailing from LA. The friendly but very negative watch repair guy in Papeete pronounced Barbara's watch DOA and mine unable to be repaired due to a storage of common watch batteries in French Polynesia. We had my battery replaced at a very expensive jewelry store in Auckland in a few minutes after our volcano climb and will replace Barbara's probably in Sydney.
3. My brand new electric shaver failed after a week on board. Fortunately I had a number of Gilette throwaway blades in my toiletry kit and purchased Edge Shaving cream in the ship's giftshop at "popular prices". I will deal with Phillips warranty procedures upon return to Boulder.
4. 3. My venerable camera came up with at least three sets of bad rechargeable batteries, and the camera itself needed its electrical contacts cleaned. I'm down to two ok but old sets of AA's, but Sydney abounds in Woolworths and other similar stores instead of relying on the overpriced batteries in the ship's shop. The camera contacts were dealt with by the application of high proof unflavored vodka with the suite's supply of Q-tips. (This is a well known technique, especially with the free booze policy onboard. I like to use Grey Goose, a premium brand for my electrical needs.)
5. 4. My GPS/Pedometer locked up during charging a week or so ago. I burned through only 3 minutes of Internet time to do a very well thought out Google search for "Garmin 305 Soft Reset" to find that one presses MODE and LAP simultaneously and then repowers up to unlock Garmin 305's. Good to know and completely not in the manual which I had saved on the computer but to no avail.
6. 5. It was easy to buy a replacement sunscreen tube onboard the ship when I discovered that the one from home must have been well aged and was therefore making me break out upon each application.
7. 6. We still have our three baseball hats and two larger straw or floppy hats in case of strong winds feeding one or more same to the sharks.
We will be entering Milford Sound in a few minutes. I will post a bunch of pictures in the next couple of days during our Tasman Sea crossing to Tasmania. Please keep in touch.
Monday, January 28, 2013
Dunedin in Good Weather
Sleepy 500 PersonTown of Akaroa with 6000 Cruise Passengers
Wellington - First Visit
Auckland - Climbing a Volcano (again) and a Successful Watch Battery
Friday, January 25, 2013
Northern New Zealand - Emu, Dead Maori's, and the most scenic toilet in the world. Did I mention glow worms?
Saturday 26 January 2013 (Australia Day) - at sea off the eastern coast of the north island of New Zealand
Getting caught up on our fantastic landfalls in New Zealand after essentially three weeks of sea journey. The following narrative is for Thursday's visit to the Bay of Islands. The text is from Barbara's narrative with a little help from me. I will add blogs with my comments on our tremendous visit to Auckland yesterday (where we climbed a volcano and had a watch battery replaced) and then our visit to Wellington scheduled for tomorrow.
Bay of Islands
Finally, real, honest to goodness land appeared on the horizon. Our Pacific Ocean crossing was complete. Michael and I woke early Thursday morning to see the headlands of the Bay of Islands on the horizon. It took a few minutes of staring before I convinced myself that I was seeing substantial land as opposed to another hunk of rock with a reef around it. The sight of the iconic "hole in the rock" was convincing proof that this was indeed the Bay of Islands.
The sum shone and the temperature was in the comfortable mid seventies. Silver Whisper anchored well out in the bay. The tender ride to shore at the Waitangi Wharf took more than the advertised half hour. Almost a hundred passengers piled aboard the tender. The helmsman backed us away from the ship. Suddenly there was a lot of back and forth radio chatter. The Staff Captain, second in command of the ship, appeared in the tender bay and ordered us to await a safety officer. Even though the helmsman had piloted a tender ashore to the Waitangi Wharf many times, new regulations require that a safety officer be the first to bring a tender ashore in a new port: another consequence of the wreck of the Costa Concordia.
Eventually the other ship's tender appeared around the Whisper's bow. Some minutes of maneuvering passed and a safety officer jumped from one tender to the other. He displaced the helmsman at the controls and piloted us to shore as per the new regulations.
Waitangi Wharf sits in isolation by the Waitangi Yacht Club and a now dowdy upscale hotel, at the entrance to the Waitangi Treaty Grounds. The area is a National Trust site commemorating the 1840 treaty between the Maori chieftains and the British that established New Zealand as a British colony and ultimately a nation. The wharf is scenic in the extreme. Shuttle buses waited to take us across a narrow one-lane bridge to the very touristy town of Paihia.
The New Zealand summer holiday runs from Christmas through January. Paihia was full of tourists from all over New Zealand and Australia celebrating the last week of their summer break. Tour buses filled the street. Mobile homes and vans filled the parking lots a block from the main street. A helicopter took off and landed every ten to fifteen minutes taking tourists "flightseeing" around the bay.
Michael and I paused briefly to view the artisanal merchandise on sale in tents on the village green then set out to hike to the top of a scenic overlook nearby. Less than a block from the main road, we were essentially alone. Paihia is a very small place with few streets inland from the shore shops and beaches. Half a mile from the shore, we were in wilderness. We walked up School Street, past the Paihia School, many bed and breakfasts and rental cottages and came to the head of a well-marked hiking trail.
The trail began in a boggy area, full of plants I had never seen before and soon climbed steeply. We walked through trees, giant ferns and bushes that were totally unfamiliar. An hour of strenuous exercise and we arrived at a lookout point where we could see our ship in the bay and could view islands in various shades of green dotted all about. We couldn't linger because we had to be back at Waitangi Wharf by 12:30 PM to take our scheduled tour. As we exited the trail, we passed two young New Zealanders starting the walk. The woman was wearing flip-flops and the young man was barefoot. Michael made a comment about his lack of footwear and the young man said he was wearing "Samoan sandals." New Zealanders really are not afraid of anything but apparently do not think highly of Samoans. Then again, no one in the Pacific seems to think highly of Samoans.
Our tour of the Kawiti Glow Worm Caves and Kawakawa actually took us in a large circle east, south, west and back north to Paihia. We saw the glowworms as we walked through the cave, a private, family run operation by descendants of a Maori warrior chief. The ceiling and walls are occupied by tens of thousands of unique creatures that emit a blue green light.
During a scenic drive from the cave during which we saw a Maori burial grounds and our first emu in the wild, we stopped in the small town of Kawakawa. Originally established as a coal-mining town, it developed into a tourist destination after the mines shut down. An immigrant named Handwasser built a bizarre public toilet that looks as if Art Deco met Salvador Dali. The toilets and an excursion train down the middle of the street draw visitors who Michael says are easily amused from all over New Zealand.
The tour continued west and north through the countryside and through some small towns hard hit by the closing of a dairy processing plant and a meat packing plant. The North Island of New Zealand raises dairy and beef cattle. Consolidation and modernization have led to high unemployment. Modern plants are fewer in number and hire fewer workers per plant. Our bus driver, formerly a local welder, hopes that expansion of the timber industry will bring jobs back to the area.
The last stop on our tour was at the Haruru Falls. This was a miniature Niagra-like waterfall by the bridge at Haruru Road. We all piled out of the bus and took pictures. I think it is the largest waterfall on the North Island.